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Duke of Perth
Fish 'n chips, whiskey and beer, oh my.
Friday Sep 23, 2005 by Kate Schwartz

Dress: Own jeans? Then you'll be fine. Dressing for comfort is what matters in this Scottish pub, and by comfort, I mean a belt with a few extra notches to spare, should you plan on diving into the all-you-can-eat fish 'n chips.

Best way to get there: Exit either Belmont Red Line or Diversey Brown Line; head east then south or north, respectively. The No. 22 Clark bus deposits much closer to the door.

Vibe: Pour me a pint and let me tell you about it for a while...relaxed to the max, Duke of Perth is all about grabbing a brew and finding a willing ear. Tables of thickly accented folks illustrate just how welcoming a place this is.

Quick tour: Located on a not-so-bar-heavy stretch of Clark, you'll have your choice of environs once you slip through the dark facade. A modest bar occupies the front room, joined by a few wooden tables and a much-used smoking policy. The back room, outfitted with the same wooden four-tops and antiquated wall ornaments (old clocks and farm gear) is for those who refrain from puffing. A glorious back beer garden, teeming with enough flora and fauna to temporarily confuse the bar for a garden center, offers plastic, umbrella-topped tables for outdoor drinking.

Crowd: A bit on the older side, and occasionally rowdy in a way that's anything but frat boy (but maybe a little Scottish). You'll hear plenty of accents; resist donning your own version of brogue.

Night to go: Tried-and-true drinkers will find it hard to pass up Thursday's $3.50 pints. Those in the market for a meal have their pick of deals: Wednesday and Friday feature all-you-can-eat fish 'n chips (with peas!) for less than a ten spot. Mondays knock a few dollars off with buy one entree, get one half-price, making it a wise choice for couples trying to stick to that pesky budget.

Claim to fame: Hands-down, its menu of single-malt scotch whiskey. It fills an entire page, and it sure ain't in a 12-point font. You'll have your pick of Highland, Island, Lowland, Speyside and Campbelltown scotches, to the tune of about 90 types.

Music genre: It's one of those places where "bar" and "restaurant" are strong enough to make music kind of moot, other than to say it's there, jazzing up the background a bit.

You'll feel like you're in: That cool pub you discovered during your junior year abroad, the one that made you vow to become an expat and eat bangers & mash regularly.

Beyond the barstool: Food worth writing home about, you'll find everything you'd expect from a Scottish pub, like steak and kidney pie and shepherd's pie, to surprising treats like curried strips o' lamb. Salads, burgers and traditional bar appetizers make the cut, just with a dose of humor (in this case, the haggis wings taste "just like buffalo").

On the shelves: In addition to the whiskey, you'll find plenty of Scottish and English beer that goes beyond your typical experience of the genre (which I'm guessing is Bass, Newcastle and Boddington's). Young's Oatmeal Stout is on draft, along with Belhaven's Wee Heavy. Several pours from the Craigmill Brewery, like Alba, a Scotch pine ale, and Grozet, a gooseberry wheat, are hard to resist.

Duke of Perth at 2913 N. Clark;. Open 5 p.m.-2 a.m. Monday; 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Tuesday-Friday; 11:30 a.m.-3 a.m. Saturday; noon-2 a.m. Sunday for the 21+ crowd. Never a cover.